This article is the first chapter of the UIAA Alpine Medicine Information on the website of the British Mountaineering Association.
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Original text revised by UIAA Alpine Medicine Center, Dr. Charles Clarke, 2002
Dr. Charles Clarke is a UIAA Alpine Medicine Consultant and can contact him if there is a mountain problem.
Alpine sickness, edema and mountain travel
Foreword
When people travel more than 3500 meters (11,500 feet) or sometimes lower than this, there is a range of related medical symptoms of discomfort. The speed at which the symptoms appear, the severity, and the occurrence at that height are lawless and vary from person to person. The cause of the symptoms is the lack of oxygen.
Acute Mountain Sickness AMS Acute Mountain Disease
When people take a train, drive, or fly to a height of 3,500 meters from sea level, most people feel at least uncomfortable. Headache, fatigue, abnormal gasping during exercise, heartbeat, no appetite, vomiting, dizziness, insomnia, irritability, and irregular breathing are the most common symptoms. These are the symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS). These symptoms usually do not occur immediately when high altitude is reached, but occur within 36 hours. More than 50% of travelers experience some degree of AMS acute mountain sickness at a height of 3,500 meters, but if they rise quickly to 5,000 meters (16,400 feet), almost no one can avoid.
Acclimatisation highly adaptable
Normally, these discomforts due to hypoxia will disappear in two to three days if they no longer continue to rise further. Once the body is conditioned to adapt, it can be further increased gradually, although the symptoms may occur again at any time. However, there is no absolute answer to the question of “how high, how fast?†because everyone is different; but for people with good health, the symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) are accommodating to some degree due to the rapid rise of 3500 meters. It is possible to rise again. In any case, it is stupid to rise above sea level from 3500 meters.
Above 3,500 meters, the rise again should be gradual. Our opinion is that the height of falling asleep every day is no more than 300 meters from the day before yesterday (it will also increase for two days and stay for one day). You must spend more than 3,500 meters for a minimum of one week before you spend 5,000 meters overnight. This does not mean that you cannot rise more than 300 meters in height in one day (for example, passing a mountain pass, or pushing the roof). The highest height of people's long-term life is 5,500 meters. The mountain expedition or the hike can adapt to life at 6,000 meters for several weeks. It is possible to feel good, but there are restrictions on breathing when exercising.
Premonition of acute mountain sickness
Unfortunately, there is no way to predict who will be afflicted with the AMS, and who will be spared. Some people want to assume that physical health and non-smoking will help prevent the emergence of acute mountain sickness, but unfortunately, this does not seem to be the case. Similarly, if you ever had (or did not have) acute mountain sickness at high altitudes, there is no guarantee that you will not experience AMS severe acute mountain sickness the next time you reach high altitudes.
Strenuous exercise at high altitudes, whether or not physically strong, can lead to more severe AMS acute mountain sickness; it should avoid meaningless over-the-top sports and carrying too heavy bags until complete mountain adaptation is completed. Patients with heart palpitations, lung disease, or hypertension should seek expert advice before traveling above 4,000 meters.
Drugs for preventing AMS acute mountain sickness: Diamox (acetylacetamide Acetazolamide)
There are many studies on Diamox, a diuretic drug. If you take Diamox a few days before climbing, there is no doubt that it is really useful in preventing intense alpine disease, but it is not without danger. If people really want to treat this as preventive drug therapy, I usually prescribe to take 125 mg Diamox twice a day for 3 days before 3500 meters (or higher), and then for two more days. day. Its exact role is not yet discovered, but its effect on breathing (which makes breathing faster and deeper during sleep) may be more important than the increase in urination.
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